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As a first-time denim buyer, you should definitely ignore factors.

Blue jeans are one of the most common clothing in the world, and when Levi Strauss first introduced his invention to the world in the late 1800s, it changed fashion forever. Today, there is hardly a wardrobe without a pair. Although today's version was washed for softness and worn for an old look, every pair of jeans started with the original blank canvas in indigo and cotton.

For about a century, people only found that blue jeans were in a primitive and rigid state. It was not until the 1970s that pre-worn denim entered the market, avoiding the difficult running-in process. Since then, the world has not looked back.

But in recent years, in pursuit of authenticity, independent brands have tried to recreate the rigid jeans of the past years. Dozens of brands have appeared in the revival of original denim, attracting denim lovers with selvedge denim, hand-dyed technology, textured fabrics and rare vintage details. Going through the cardboard, indigo-soaked handguards, to your own faded jeans, this is a coming-of-age gift for fashionistas.

If you are just starting out and are considering your first pair, you may have heard a lot of suggestions from forums and friends who were baptized into cowboys through the bathtub. Therefore, in order to reduce the noise a bit, we talked with Jason Pecarich, the founder of Division Road, a Seattle store, and pointed out factors that you should definitely ignore as a first-time denim buyer.

The weight of your denim is not a big issue. Yes, you wear them every day (even during your sleep, if you are particularly excited), so it makes sense to be picky about fabrics. However, if this is your first pair of original jeans, keep it simple and medium weight. It is about 13 to 15 ounces. Pecaric said that at this weight, it "will still feel very strong, durable, give you that stiff, original denim feel, and help prevent overstretching."

A common misconception is that heavier weight means longer lasting, but this is not always the case. Pecarich pointed out that factors such as cotton variety and quality, yarn type, and weaving tension are better indicators of longevity.

He said that the most important thing about the weight of denim is that it should match your lifestyle. "An office worker who commutes by car (entering the office is one thing)... won't walk through their denim as quickly as someone who does manual labor or walks/hikes for miles every day."

In other words, choosing a 21-ounce denim may sound hard core. But as the first use, it may leave a bad taste in your mouth.

You will forget this. Believe me. At the end of the day, you will like your fade in and out. Caring about which factory your denim fabric comes from is like caring about which estate your coffee beans are grown in-once you have more experience, you will care about this. Now, please pay attention to whether you like the fabric itself, not the name of the factory.

"Jeans are a very personal experience, no two bodies are the same. Therefore, even if they are considered high-waist pants, they still feel low-waisted, and vice versa, it depends on the body," Pecarich said. The help of qualitative terminology is ambiguous and can only make you go further before you need to try it yourself. This may not be easy today, and it may require returning a few pairs of jeans to reduce the correct size.

Don't get too entangled in the measurement chart. Quantitative measurements are helpful, but they are still only part of the equation. Don't let the size chart determine whether jeans are right for you. Pecarich said that this boils down to "having a fit where you like the silhouette, and understanding that it is impossible to achieve a certain degree of tightness without adding elastic components to the fabric."

This is trial and error, this is a problem that you cannot solve.

Getting the perfect rope fading at the hem is something to be proud of, and you will see the Japanese in action in Popeye's post. Chain stitched hem is often seen on blue jeans, whether they come from a hypermarket or a small-volume jeans manufacturer. Denimheads sees it as another sign of authenticity and mocks the regular straight stitched hem. "Don't let the chain stitch hem trouble you," Pecarich said. "Some people who check online or on forums think that they have to sew up the jeans chain. It depends on the location. This can be painful. Some stores provide services, but their machines or technology are not up to the task. This shouldn't Become a bar to buy."

The resulting fades are great, of course. But please consider whether you will see them. "Frankly, if you plan to use double-rolled cuffs for a long time, we actually recommend that you use a regular tailor's flat-stitched hem because it is worn during the soaking/shrinking process and later," Pecaric said.

Unsanforized and shrink denim is essentially a denim that has not yet shrunk. Although most denim has undergone a process called sanforization to eliminate most of the remaining shrinkage in the fabric, hardcore denim nerds treat unshrunk and shrink-fit denim as a pure form. This is the source of the entire process of soaking jeans in a bathtub and wearing them when wet. The idea is that denim will shrink and fit your body when it dries, resulting in an excellent fit.

Pecarich and his team recognize that there are many opinions in this area, but they also know that not all shrink fit fabrics are created equal. This may complicate an already dazzling process.

"Our rule is to have enough space for your hands to fit your waistline," Pecarich said. Soak the jeans cold in a bathtub or sink for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring gently with your hands to help remove starch from the fabric. You can also choose a washing machine and use a non-spinning rinse cycle. Then, let them dry until they become wet-neither absorbing water nor drying out. At that time, put them on for a walk or do some other standing activities to let the jeans dry completely on your body. "This will help control shrinkage, and the shape of the denim is closer to your body shape," Pecarich said. If you need them to shrink a bit more, let them dry longer. Conversely, if you need to reduce waist shrinkage (1"-), wear them when they are wetter.

In other words, you will end up with a pair of unfit jeans. If you don't want to try your luck, a pair of sterilized or washed jeans will eliminate these factors for you. Don't worry, most shops will tell you if the denim is safely processed.

In many primitive denim folk tales, revolves around how to wash jeans. Some people will say only soak your jeans and never throw them in the washing machine or dryer. Some people will say that washing in the sea and rubbing with sand is the true way of cowboy heads. And, of course, there are many people who support never washing jeans.

However, if you want a pair of raw jeans because of its durability, you should wash the jeans. "Denim is designed to wash when it's dirty," Pecarich said. "Failing to do so will increase the bacteria and debris in the fibers and yarns, which will artificially force the fabric to decompose faster."

Pecarich said that the trinity of denim durability is fit, regular rotation and regular washing. Division Road recommends that you wear new jeans at least 30 times before the first wash. It is best to use 60-90 times to make the fabric fit your body better.

But like most "rules", Pecarich admits that there are no real rules. "So, whether it's every month or every three months, please wash your denim when needed."

There are no rules. Although it is clichéd, especially for something as trivial as jeans, it is as important as the journey and the end result (fading). "What makes the original denim so special is that the final result and process are unique. There is no right or wrong way to wear jeans." If you are trying to "do it right," please keep this in mind.