Since its invention more than 100 years ago, the sewing machine has become one of the most popular DIY equipment in North America. Unfortunately, this device may also produce more frustration than any other tool or device.

After all, when a total of $25 (average) "cleaning and adjusting" bills is allowed, the money saved by doing household sewing will soon be eaten up. To make matters worse, many people-unable to afford the professional maintenance costs and unwilling to face the tedious task of maintaining sewing machines on their own-eventually abandon the project when their sewing machine fails; these people also often give up on materials and time. Large investment in the country.

Of course I have never been trained as a repairman. In fact, in theory, I am not even sure how the sewing machine works, and I have two left hands to start. Nevertheless, with the help of my trusted screwdriver and the patient guidance of local Viking service representative Johnny Sweder, I have been able to keep four machines running in the past six years-one of them is used every day, usually By novice tailors and seamstresses! Even better, during those six years, the repair costs for all four of my machines totaled $16. (Of course, this figure does not include thread, spools, needles, and light bulbs used in the same period.)

In addition, I think the knowledge that Mr. Sweder passed to me may be helpful to other people who care about the care and feeding of the automatic suture machine. Who knows, the following suggestions might reduce the number of four-letter words flying around your sewing area!

My observation is [1] Most sewing machine failures occur because operators cut corners (for example, neglecting regular cleaning, trying to use unfamiliar "cheap" needles, etc., or not bothering to quickly "review" and read through it for a long time without sewing. The following instructions), and [2] Nine out of ten, but the resulting malfunction-miraculously-is small and can be repaired at home.

However, there will still be some very serious problems that are beyond the ability of the average DIYer. Therefore, it is a good idea to learn how to spot malfunctions that may require going to a sewing machine repair shop. (Of course, these same issues are important issues to look for and avoid in any machine you might consider buying!)

Remove the bobbin case and hold the shuttle with your left hand. If you can turn the balance wheel while holding the shuttle in place — or if you hear a ratchet when turning the balance wheel — then you have reason to suspect this serious problem.

Secure the new needle into the rod. Now, the bobbin case is still removed, while turning the balance wheel (slowly!) toward you, while watching the game. The tip of the shuttle should pass through the needle 3/32 inches above the eye. If the needle hits the shuttle or any part of the game, you will know that the time has passed. Moreover, unless you have a maintenance manual and are quite proficient in mechanical technology, you may need professional services.

To diagnose this specific fault, fix the balance wheel with your right hand. Then grab the needle bar with your left thumb and index finger and try to push it up into the machine. When you are holding the balance wheel, you cannot lift the needle bar at all.

If you are checking your flashing machine and find that it passes the above three tests, you may be able to determine the problem by matching the symptoms of the device with subsequent symptoms. (I have ranked the possible causes of each failure according to their likelihood of occurrence.)

However, you may only want to clean the stapler before performing any repairs, because the accumulation of fluff and various "junks" can cause a lot of problems. You will be surprised how quickly the machine gets dirty!

Use a small brush to remove lint, etc. from the machine. Then, if you find buildup on any part—especially if it’s on a shuttle or a racetrack—wipe off the grease with a soft, solvent-soaked cloth before re-oiling it. After the cleaning is complete, you can compare the symptoms (if, that is, they still exist!) with the symptoms listed here.

[1] The needle may be backward. Make sure that the thread enters the eye of the needle from the slotted side of the needle. If your machine is threaded from front to back, remember that the flat part of the needle handle should face the back of the sewing machine.

[2] The thread hangs on the groove of the spool. This problem occurs especially frequently when using styrene spools. Either disconnect the slotted part from the edge of the clamp or simply put it upside down on the spindle.

[3] Your machine is not threaded correctly. For example, if you thread the thread with the presser foot down, the thread may climb to the top of the tension plate instead of between them, causing it to loop and break on the underside of the material you are sewing.

[4] When you started sewing, you did not grasp the loose end of the thread. Some machines are very sensitive to this. If you do not hold the thread during the first few stitches, the thread will be pulled into the raceway and roar, causing the top thread to break.

[5] Severe burrs on the tip of the shuttle. To determine whether this is the case, simply take the space shuttle out of the game and check it. If the unit is thread cut, it must be replaced. However, if it only has burrs, use a fine emery cloth to remove the burrs, and then polish the shuttle. But be careful not to remove too much material or change the shape of the device.

[6] The needle plate is damaged or burrs. If the part is damaged or the thread is cut, replace the part. Of course, the needles can be carefully removed with a fine emery cloth.

[7] The bobbin is backward. If you pull the bobbin thread when loading the case, the bobbin should rotate clockwise (when viewed from the back of the case). Note that some are designed to rotate in the opposite direction. If you have any questions about the operation of the machine, please refer to your manual.

The most common sewing machine failure may be unbalanced tension. If the tension is set correctly, the top and bottom threads will get knotted in the sewn fabric.

If your machine has a detachable bobbin case, please start troubleshooting by checking the area under the thread tension spring. To do this, remove the upper screw and turn the spring a quarter turn to the right. But be careful: the screws are small, with only three or four threads, so they are easy to lose! Now, clean and inspect the bottom of the spring and the surface of the housing. If the latter is thread cut, it must be replaced.

When finished, reinstall the screws and adjust so that the bobbin case stays in place while hanging from the bobbin thread until the thread sways slightly up and down. Adjusting the spring to this point should keep the top thread tension in the mid-to-high range (ie, between points 5 and 7 in the range of 1 to 10), and the thread should be knotted in the middle of the material being sewn.

On the other hand, if your machine does not have a detachable bobbin case, please thread the thread on the top and bottom of the machine and tie the ends of the thread together. Then adjust the top thread tension to a medium range, and make sure that the presser foot is down but does not stay on the line. Now, place the screwdriver in the loop formed by the two wires, close to the knot, and then pull the wire toward the back of the machine. Finally, adjust the bobbin tension spring screw until the knot is fixed in a position relative to the screwdriver when the coil is pulled.

If after you adjust the bobbin tension spring, the stitches on the underside of the material have multiple irregular small loops, your machine may be threaded incorrectly. In this case, the upper thread has no tension, so it is pulled completely through the material and looped on the bottom surface. (If there are loops on the material, it can be considered that the upper tension is too tight or the bottom is too loose. In this case, adjust the bobbin tension first to achieve a balance between the two.) Two. )

[1] The seat ring is dirty or the spindle has a thread wrapped around its base. Remove the bobbin case and check these components.

[2] There is dirt under the tension spring on the bobbin case. Follow the instructions for tensioning.

[3] The thread is not evenly wound around the bobbin. If an even pressure is not maintained when winding the bobbin, the thread will recoil.

[4] You used the wrong needle. Using ordinary needles on knitted fabrics can cause skipped stitches. Always use ball needles on such materials.

[5] The needle is dirty. (This is common when using coated fabrics.) Either replace it or clean it with a lighter liquid or nail polish remover. Then apply a small amount of ChapStick brand lip balm to the needle and rub it with your fingers before continuing your project.

[6] The needle is bent and must be replaced.

[7] Time is closed. To determine whether this more serious problem has occurred, please refer to the "Timing" section above.

[8] The diameter of your thread is not uniform. It is best to choose a thread with a smooth surface and no lint. Generally speaking, all-polyester or cotton-coated polyester-polyester thread may be the easiest to use.

[9] A small piece of thread protrudes from the hole on the side of the bobbin. If you are used to using these openings when starting the thread on the bobbin, make sure that the thread is flush with the bobbin before starting to sew. If any thread protrudes, it will rub the raceway and cause the bobbin to jam.

[10] The bobbin is warped or has burrs and should be replaced.

[11] The upper tension disc is dirty. Spray a thin strip of cotton cloth with WD40 brand lubricant, and then wipe it back and forth between the disks to remove the accumulated sticky material.

 [1] When the cloth passes through the machine, you need to apply more tension to the cloth. However, don't pull it over. Let the machine feed it, but apply gentle tension.

[2] The needle you are using is too large. Sizes 9 to 12 are generally suitable for light fabrics, sizes 12 to 14 are suitable for medium-weight fabrics, and sizes 16 to 18 are suitable for heavier fabrics.

[3] The needle has serious burrs and should be replaced.

[4] For the type of material you are using, the top and bottom threads are too tight. Adjust the tension.

[1] You accidentally set the device to "darn" or "appliqué". Change the settings.

[2] The lint accumulated under the needle plate prevents the feed dog from removing the component. Remove the plate and use a hard brush to remove all lint.

[3] The feed dog needs to be adjusted to an appropriate gap above the needle plate. They should protrude about 3/32 inches at the top of the feed cycle. Although the adjustment process may be very simple, it does vary greatly from one type of machine to another. Please check your instructions before handling this work.

[4] The presser foot pressure is incorrect. If set properly, the upper and lower materials will be fed at the same speed and will not move left and right during feeding. Especially when quilting, the correct adjustment of the presser foot is essential for uniform feeding. Test the pressure until the upper and lower material blocks are fed at the same rate.

[1] You are pulling material through the machine. Apply a slight tension, but let the machine do the actual feeding. If you force through the workpiece, you can bend the needle enough to hit the needle plate and break.

[2] You tried to feed a thick material through the machine without first loosening the presser foot to accommodate the extra thickness. If the machine is not bound during this process, it should be possible to sew fairly heavy materials.

[3] Time is off. Please refer to the "Timing" section to determine if this relatively serious problem has occurred.

[1] If the balance wheel is difficult to turn, it may be "binding" inside the machine. Lubricate and clean the equipment.

[2] The brush is badly worn. It may be easy to replace the brushes on the machine, but before consulting the manual and solving the work, be sure to unplug the motor. (If the brushes are completely worn out, they will damage the commutator. This will require more serious and expensive repairs.)

By following the organized troubleshooting methods described in this article, you should be able to diagnose and cure most diseases that may hit your trusted stapler. Happy sewing, I hope all the problems you find are small problems!

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